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View from atop the stone staircase at Barefoot Beach, East End, Grand Cayman
LOCATION INFO: Perhaps one of the most stunning vistas in all of Grand Cayman can be viewed looking west from the widow's walk, atop the stone staircase at Barefoot Beach. This idyllic spot has pretty much dropped-off the tourist radar (if it ever was on it) once the planned Mandarin Oriental resort fell into post hurricane Ivan limbo. Having seen a brief mention of this spot (when describing the shore dive at neighboring Anchor Point) in the snorkeling guide that got me started on Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands Discounts Dive and Snorkel Guide; I thought it might just be a nice quiet little beach worth searching out one day.
Having correctly guessed at the location thanks to an entrance sign on the defunct Barefoot Gardens Villas development, Mrs. Testudo and I took our chairs, cooler of CayLight and sauntered down the path to the beach eager to see what we happened upon. The short downhill path through some Seagrape trees opens to a small natural sandy beach. The surrounding palm tree fringed cliffs create an amphitheater like setting and which adds to the beauty of the spot. There are washed up strands of sea grass with some intermingled flotsam and jetsam (Anyone lose a flip-flop?). Just clear out some space and make yourself comfortable. Following the beach westward towards the abandoned villas leads towards another good snorkeling area Anchor Point .
FINDING IT (19°21'12.91"N 81° 7'36.05"W): Look for the Barefoot Gardens Villa sign on the abandoned development's wall when coming from the West (Old Man Bay, approx. 3.3 miles from the Frank Sound Rd. intersection) or a long, low stone wall when coming from the East (the Reef Resort is about 2.3 miles away). The entrance to the beach is an unmarked, small tuck-in opening between the Seagrape trees, with parking for 2-3 cars (if done right) or park along road. It is easy to miss, so just drive slow when you come upon one of the landmarks and keep on the look-out for a speed limit sign and a driveway on the opposite side of the road. There is little traffic on the road, so backing up is usually possible in the event of a drive-by.
Link to a larger interactive map of Barefoot Beach
CONDITIONS: The sandy beach gradually spills into the usually calm water, making for a very easy entry and donning of gear. When not snorkeling, the water is perfect for swimming or leisurely floating the day away, enjoying your favorite beverage. From the beach, the best snorkeling can be found by heading straight out towards the barrier reef. The initial 125 yds are approx. 4-6 feet deep, passing over seemingly endless beds of sea grass. Here you are apt see an occasion turtle, reef squid or a curious gang of Bar Jacks.
Upon reaching the end of the grassy meadows, you will start to see large mounds of interspersed coral heads popping up from the ongoing grassy bottom. This area is very much reminiscent of the Queen's Monument location in terms of seascape and marine life. Depending on the tide, the depth can range from 3-8 feet with little or no current.
There are some underwater vents in the area that can cause the water to become a bit blurry. This is due to the chemicals being ejected (more on the vents to come in the upcoming Anchor Point Guide) mixing with the sea water. You may notice a sulfur smell on the beach if the vents are particularly active or it is a windless day.
WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO SEE: The rapidly unfolding coral formations and marine life are abundant throughout the area. Start exploring in a westerly direction out to the reef, then zig-zagging back and forth over the shoal area. The coral in this shoal is among the healthiest near shore I have yet encountered. There are young Elkhorn, budding Brain corals, large carpets of green Mountainous Star corals and some eerie ancient Elkhorn remnants out by the reef. Fish of all kinds can be seen darting about and many are unafraid.
Since the water is rather shallow, close-up observation and of the creatures that dwell within nooks and crevasses of the corals is easily accomplished. Careful observation may yield an anemone or sea flower spreading and closing its "petals" in search of a drifting morsel. Lots of juvenile fish that look nothing like their older siblings are also fun to discover. Small schools of the shy Black Durgon can usually be seen on a nearby coral head, only to gradually drift away as you approach. Grunts and small snapper are plentiful, and the grassy sea bed makes it a great environment for rays. Scorpionfish, Glasseye Snapper, and Glassy Sweepers are also regular sightings. The conditions make this a great location for snorkelers of all abilities, except for possibly first-timers (due to the moderate swim out).
Here are some pictures from my last snorkel. The seas were a bit cloudy, but the fish were friendly:
Barefoot Beach Gardens Villas landmark - Views from East and West
Stone Wall landmark heading west Tuck-in, with a small parking area at base
Squadron of Bar Jacks
Juvenile Yellowtailed Damselfish
Juvenile Smooth Trunkfish
Elkhorn and Brain Corals
Christmas Tree Hydroid
Glasseye Snapper
Yellow Sting Ray
Mountainous Star Coral
More Mountainous Star Coral
Corky Sea Fingers
Grunts and a Wrasse
Typical Sescape
Green Sea Turtle
Fish Bowl
View of Barefoot Beach from the water
This site is quickly becoming my favorite due to the great corals, abundant fish and beautiful setting. So for somewhere truly off the beaten path, go run Barefoot to this beach. If you get the opportunity to visit let me know what you think.
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ADDITIONAL PICTURES ALBUMS HERE: 1 2
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View Testudo's Bodden Town Snorkel Guide in a larger map
A welcoming committee of Chubs greets new arrivals
While the beaches and restaurants of the southern and western coasts of Grand Cayman are fantastic, the snorkeling has generally been a let down on the Testudo snork-O-meter experience scale. I do enjoy visiting Eden Rock and Devils Grotto on Sundays when George Town is more like Ghost Town; just to gaze in wonder at the sheer mass of coral and guess how many millions of years it took to build those mammoth structures in utter solitude the weekends afford. Many of the other well worn nearby West Bay sites are just that; still enjoyable in their own right, but not really memorable.
My perfect snorkel site combines varied underwater terrain, diverse marine life, with abundant and vibrant coral structures; a combination I have been unable to find away from the North Side and East End sites, until now.
I have been told that the snorkeling off Bodden Town was pretty good. But then I have heard the same thing about Cemetery Beach in West Bay, so I thought, yeah right.
The area initially got added to the radar when we were looking at properties and a real estate agent commented on the good snorkeling off Turtle Nest Inn (he used to harvest lobsters there) and continued as I read the frequent comments of TNI guests on Trip Advisor attesting to the great snorkeling there. So after a few requests from blog readers, I finally got around to having a look see for myself OK to be honest, it was really because the weather was just pounding the surf all along North Side on our last visit. I had gotten in next to no decent snorkeling and was desperate for a fix.
Happy to report, I have now found decent snorkeling on the south side.
LOCATION (19°16'51.95"N 81°14'45.12"W): I choose to set up snorkel base camp at the Governor Russell public beach. Due partly to the usually east to west prevailing currents and also since I perceive the redeveloping Coe Wood beach (just down the road to the west) to still be a bit sketchy.
It is located just west of the cemetery (why are so many snorkel spots on Grand Cayman adjacent to cemeteries?) and east of the Pirate Caves tourist trap on Bodden Town Rd. There is a wide shoulder along the road near by the bus stop for parking. A sliding fence gate serves as the entryway to the beach.
The beach itself is tiny and semi-picturesque, but nothing to write home about. There are no facilities of any kind here. Just down the road to the west is the Coe Wood Public Beach, which does have parking, restrooms, shade pavilions and a few nearby food and drink vendors. It too can serve as a good snorkel base camp.
From the West, park on the roadside near the beach entrance. Just not in front of the bus stop.
View from the East, park along the roadside just past the cemetery
Entrance gates to the Governor Russell Public Beach
Pick a spot among the crowds and make yourself at home
CONDITIONS: While the beach is nice and sandy, the entry from it can be slightly rocky. Nothing too burdensome to overcome, just look for a sandy opening as you choose where to enter. Once you are in the water, head straight out towards the reef. Like many spots, the initial terrain is beds of turtle grass, these eventually gives way to small coral colonies. The reef is about 200 yds from shore and most of the coral is contained within a 125 yds - 200 yds zone from the beach. The seas were still a bit rough on my visit due to all the September tropical systems in the area, but nothing like the mess back on the North Side that week.
This is a location that you do need to be mindful of the tidal conditions. Though the water is shallow throughout the area, mainly between 3 - 8 feet, there are some cuts in the barrier reef that can create a funnel effect with the currents. It can translate into a fairly strong outward pull or inward push, but especially evident when the tide is going out. If there are strong surges and/or currents, avoiding a collision with coral can be a challenge. To help make the most of your visit, I recommend checking the tidal forecasts when conducting your trip planning.
Once you have cleared the turtle grass zone, soft corals and sea fans will start to become visible. The marine life is not abundant in this zone, but some of the more solitary species may be seen.
Soon you will come upon some of the large hard coral colonies and the marine life will become more pronounced. Unfortunately, I witnessed some significant areas of coral bleaching. The Blade Fire corals were especially impacted. Hopefully the El Nino condition that warmed the waters this Spring and Summer will diminish and usher in a period of cooler water temperatures and improved coral heath.
Approaching the reef you will begin to see much more marine life and some moderately healthy coral colonies. This area was hit especially hard by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 and the corals appear to be just recently staging a come back. There is a nice mix of hard and soft corals out here and several large schools of Blue Tang and Chubs who will most likely swim by to investigate you.
As you make your way west towards the Turtle Nest Inn there will be some imposing Elk Horn forests. Most of the coral is still dead here, but it houses some of the larger fish I came across. Namely some large Parrotfish and a resident Barracuda.
There is a lot to see here and I by no means have explored it fully. For those that prefer a shallow water snorkel with varied terrain and good fish counts this should be added to your short list. It is now my go to south shore snorkel location.
The sea floor on the way out towards the reef is turtle grass
You will soon come upon some small sea fans, whips and soft corals
Approaching the reef the corals increase in size and diversity
Evidence of coral bleaching was especially acute at this site
The white areas are the dead sections of the coral caused by the bleaching
There is a nice mix of different coral species throughout the area
More evidence of bleaching on Blade Fire Corals
The Elkhorn corals took a beating from Ivan in 2004, but new growth attests to their resiliency.
Staghorn coral clusters are also making a come back
Typical seascape out by the reef
Following a school of Blue Tang usually leads to something worth seeing
Like this reef monitor, who's making sure everything is in order. Why do barracuda always seem much bigger in person?
A nice view of the shore
DOWNLOAD THE BODDEN TOWN GUIDE HERE
For more pictures, check out my Bodden Town Snorkel album
Above embedded map is interactive
Click the link to view the Queen's Monument site in a larger interactive map.
The Monument commemorating Queen Elizabeth's dedication of the Old Robin Road extension to the East End
The snorkeling site that goes by the most names is perhaps one of the most highly regarded sites on Grand Cayman by snorkeling devotees - Queen's Monument, also known as Connolly's Cove, Babylon Reef and for those really in the know, Candy Coconut. Some of the factors that make this site so appreciated are: the ease of getting there, the general shallowness of the water and most importantly, the overall quality of the snorkeling. The area is protected by a barrier reef, so it rarely experiences big swells or strong currents, but it can get choppy. The varied underwater topography rages from grassy beds, to individual coral communities, to stretches of barrier reef; providing an excellent home for many species of fish and other marine life. Unfortunately, the water conditions were not favorable on my last two visits aimed at gathering information for this guide, hence the lack of images and marine animal life contained in them. There are usually many small schools of fish, the occasional barracuda, foraging turtles and rummaging rays to be found in this spot.
The conditions and marine life here are very similar to those at Barefoot Beach just down the road, so viewing the images of that other excellent spot may provide some additional visual context.
For those who enjoy deep water snorkels, there are also sections of the famous Grand Cayman North Wall located just to the west of this site; starting 200-300 yards immediately out from the Northern Lights condo. Just look for the mooring buoys. A long swim, but well worth it for observing a deep water wall snorkel environment. The famous Babylon Wall dive site is the third set of buoys when heading west, about 300 yds out.
LOCATION INFORMATION (19°21'3.71"N 81° 9'32.59"W): The snorkeling grounds are located on the north side of Grand Cayman, at the border of the North Side and East End districts (approximately 1.2 miles from the Frank Sound Rd. 2-way intersection where the road forks towards Rum Point or the East End; or 4.5 miles west of the Reef/Morritt's resort complexes along Old Robin Rd.).
Nearby landmarks to look for when coming from Old Man Bay in the west are the small Northern Lights condominium complex on the left, just before the Connolly's Cove cleared lot picture below and the Babylon Reef house (look for a house sign) a few lots past Connolly's Cove.
When coming from the East End, the Queen's Monument dedication site will be on your left, just prior to reaching Connolly's Cove across from the Babylon Reef House on your right.
If the gates to the lot are open, many people will choose to park there, under the shade of the Casuarina pine tree. If the gates are closed, then parking along the road is also an option.
A popular entrance area to the Queen's Monument snorkel site is known as Connolly's Cove.
Park along the side of the road or pull into the lot and park if the gates are open.
CONDITIONS: Since the coral is so large and the water so shallow, this spot is best explored during a period of higher tide. Visiting during low tide usually presents lower visibility and makes penetrating many of the coral outcroppings almost impossible. Click here for a visual tide chart to help determine when to plan your snorkel.
Due to the usually east to west prevailing current, I will normally gather my gear and walk up along the beach to the right for about 180 yards, until I reach the Babylon Reef House. The water entry in the area is rocky and shallow, so donning your flippers and doing the backwards duck walk into the water is sometimes good option. The only Spiny Sea Urchins I regularly encounter are along the shore closer to the Northern Lights condo, but care should be exercised when entering and exiting the water.
Once out into deep enough water to begin snorkeling, just head straight out towards the reef. The first environment zone you will come upon is a turtle grass meadow. Keep on the lookout for small groups of Bar Jacks who frequently come to investigate or a lone Trunkfish before it swims off. After covering about 60 yards, you should start to see the first of many large coral colonies plopped about like cookie dough mounds among the sea grass. Pick one that look interesting and start exploring. The grass will give way to sand as you approach the barrier reef. The coral colonies structures and species composition will also change as you near the reef and again you head westward.
When you switch back and forth between each of these micro-zones, take notice of the fish species that prefer to inhabit each - the grunts and snapper by the Star corals, the Reef Squid near the grass to coral transition zone, the barracuda in the transition zone closer to the reef, the Black Durgon out along the reef.
I usually cover the area in a zig-zag pattern, exploring the coral colonies and their denizens up-close and then tailing any creatures that strike my fancy off toward the reef. Some less seen creatures you may come across are Flamingo Tongue snails with colorful orange spots on their flesh (or all white shells if they are retracted), Scorpionfish camouflaging themselves under coral and rock ledges or the delicate Yellow Sea Feather Dusters. Both Southern Sting Rays and the much smaller Yellow Sting Ray are frequently found in the grassy coral sections. To find the rays, look for the clouds of kicked up sediment they create when foraging for tasty morsels of shellfish. As yet, I have not encountered any Lionfish here, but it is only a matter of time I'm afraid.
As you float your way back towards the parking area, observe how the coral colonies begin to transition into large thickets of Elkhorn corals. This section can take on an eerie feel, especially on overcast days or in the evenings. Many of these colonies are on the decline or dead which creates an air of a spooky haunted fairytale forest when entering. However, the area is far from dead; fish counts can still be surprisingly abundant and there is new coral growth towards the interior of the thicket.
Head East (right when facing the water) along the beach up to the Babylon Reef House.
The beach in front of the Babylon Reef House makes a good entry spot to begin your snorkel.
The initial sea floor heading out towards the reef will be turtle grass.
You will soon come upon the first of numerous coral colonies.
The area from theses first colonies out to the barrier reef contain many different species of both hard and soft corals.
Blade Fire Corals mix with Lobed Star and Finger Corals
The delicate Yellow Feather Duster
A Flamingo Tongue snail hides in its glistening shell
As you meander toward the parking area, the grassy sea floor gradually gives way to sand.
The boulder coral colonies will transition into a fairytale Elkhorn coral forest by Northern Lights
Finally becoming predominantly an Elkhorn coral forest.
The pier from the Northern Lights Condo's makes a good boundary landmark to head back to the cove.
DOWNLOAD THE QUEENS'S MONUMENT GUIDE HERE
View from atop the stone staircase at Barefoot Beach, East End, Grand Cayman
Squadron of Bar Jacks
Juvenile Yellowtailed Damselfish
Juvenile Smooth Trunkfish
Elkhorn and Brain Corals
Christmas Tree Hydroid
Glasseye Snapper
Yellow Sting Ray
Mountainous Star Coral
More Mountainous Star Coral
Corky Sea Fingers
Grunts and a Wrasse
Typical Sescape
Green Sea Turtle
Fish Bowl
View of Barefoot Beach from the water
